Deep Mulch, No-Till, Garden at Prairie Road Organic

Deep Mulch, No-Till, Garden at Prairie Road Organic

the padule family garden has been in organic no-till management for 37 years and if we pull back the mulch in this garden we find an amazingly rich black soil this soil has become so rich so dark so well aggregated because it has not been tilled in all this time what you see when you look at it are lots of small aggregates lots of worms annals places where air water and roots can move freely through the soil the natural fertility appears to be very high and that's great for production purposes look how easily the soil breaks apart into large clumps it's very loose it's very rich high in organic matter thank you Frank for that introduction you can see more of Frank's video on our no-till garden by visiting the link posted here welcome to Prairie Road organic seed and to our family gardens hi I'm Teresa poedel and I would like to share with you some of the advantages of a deep mulch no-till garden system and to demonstrate our mulching methods we mulch two gardens and both are featured on this video this is our South garden this mulch system has many advantages in terms of soil quality it feeds the soil microbes and earthworms as the mulch is decomposed you are basically composting the mulch in place adding all the fertility and organic matter needed it dramatically increases the amount of rainwater that enters the soil while protecting the soil in event of hard-driving rains like those we've recently experienced here in North Dakota reducing runoff and erosion and mulch systems offer the user-friendly benefit of helping to control weeds the only weeding required is between the plants in the row and next to the mulch our Gardens utilize a thick layer of mulch between the rows the mulch covers the soil in a four to six inch thick mat the rows are three feet apart this garden has just received a fresh layer of hay mulch mulching the garden about mid June provides a window of opportunity when all the plants in the garden are quite young and the rows are easily mulched in between this is what the row looks like prior to mulching we carry square hay bales into the garden and carefully place the bale between the rows you could see the bales in the background to the right we set the bales with the twine not spaced up we cut the two of strings of twine near the nuts and grab the nuts and pull the twine out from under the bale leaving it largely intact and still neatly positioned between the row the bale naturally wants to fan out and separate into sections from the baling process we take 4 to 6 inch thick sections and lay the squares of pay between the plant rows with each square stacked and to end right next to each other the hay strands are generally parallel to the row to spread the hay take a hold of each side of the square and gently pull and shake the hay apart positioning it between the two rows in a thick map make sure not to cover or traumatize any young and tender plant crawl forward and kneel on the new mulch section and work the next square progressing down the rope the mulch that you use in your garden needs to be free of any weed seeds to avoid this hazard we hae a small field just north of the garden about mid-june prior to any grass seed heads forming we cut dry rake and Bale the hay in small square bales that are easily handled in the gardens cases square gently shake it spread it across the row gently position it between the plants and move to your next section if the hay of bunched up underneath from the baling process just gently move it and spread it the way you need it to link your garden will go from this to this to this happy mulching and our best to you this growing season from all of us at Prairie Road organic seed you can stay in touch with Prairie Road organic seed and follow us throughout the season by visiting our website subscribing to our mailing list and liking our Facebook page if you found this video helpful please like the video and add your comments thank you for watching

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49 thoughts on “Deep Mulch, No-Till, Garden at Prairie Road Organic

  1. Do almost the same thing. I find I have no worry about weed seeds because there's never any light and even if they germinate they die because again no light. Great video.


       The Overall Picture.

       Paul Gautschi, considered world's best gardner,  can be an idiot sometimes. 

       Thbible she say while God be found true, let every man be proved a liar. So true.

       I have highest IQ history of mankind so  I'm a bit ahead of thcurve. I always start out as our societies concept of th stupidest person in class. Which is a death sentence 2Satans professors. In 2nd grade the teacher would stand me up in class &YELL @me top of her lungs. Never once raised a voice 2any1 else. 

        I even became world's best guitarist age 26 in 3 years when Van Halen was my best friend back in LA. With ZERO music training up 2that. 

        I was different I don't prune trees. Paul says "God prunes so I do too." I think God had 2prune bcuz of our present Satanic poison planet medium. 

         Yahweh had 2graft Adam 2make Eve 2clean up a mess.  Adams 1st wife Lilith, created from dust, left Adam. So Adam was demoted. To flesh, Eve created in demoted medium. Get it?


        Who knows. Either way I don't think any pruned tree is going 2keep up with mine. I bend the branches over in a fan shape. I associate tree 2b visible from road. This method has massive curb appeal from 1,000ft. away. I dunno if u in2 neighbors blessing u all day as they drive by… & Increasing significantly property values. 

        How cutting branches gives u more fruit is beyond me. Have fun with that1. 

       I have never actually done the comparisons.

       But I bought 2 spindley diseased dying trees4 $15 Home Depot 3ft. tall June 1987. I had a few fruit fall, &buckets thereafter using no prune. I had a tree that was certainly superior aesthetically 2Pauls in 1 year. Bcuz it looks, well u know, totally batsh*t bonsai.

       In 2 years,  branches were bent over twice so I had a 28ft. wide tree by 2nd fall no taller then 8ft. Imagine that blooming along a fence. &NOT taking up interior space yard. it becomes a fence. 

       in 1year a 7ft. Home Depot tree got 14ft. tall 4me. But when I fan it out, I have a 10ft. wide tree by following spring, 15ft. by fall. You can get 100ft. I would guess from1 tree? Kind of efficient? 

        I do sometimes trim branches 2keep fan flat.

        No1 online knows how 2plant a tree bcuz Satan's scientist own Wickepedia &google lolmost. Here is how 2gro a tree FAST. 

       dig hole. discard bottom clays. use only fluffy top soils but no cellulose materials. plant tree with damp top dry soil AND DO NOT WATER. 

       The secret no1 knows?

        gently hourglass the DAMP soil back in hole just as fluffy as u can get it. That tree will nuclear detonate. Explode in growth. MULCHING DOES NOTHING. no, mulch until u positively SMOTHER.

        Best culinary experience I remember as a child was an apple.  age 11. It was growing on thick wood chips. In New York. Same LATTITUDE as Paul. Stone fruits aren't real happy in Brazil. 

        On a cool foggy greenhouse earth with no sun and constant clouds like Eden had, yes, Paul's concepts are universally best. But no matter where u are his concepts are best. But again u have to install PUDDLES. As a universal rule. They are not even on Paul's present day radar. 

       In 1987 I began building a 1 year wild food forest above Los Angeles on a 2,500ft. mt. I chose. 

       I discovered my weeds grew WHERE TRACTORS HAD DISTURBED THE EARTH. 


     Puddles:  …do NOT exist in nature. They go extinct. Always. 

       So, I built swales, damns, and puddles, like the tractors did. And my ants grew. I grew a 60ft. eucalyptus 3years from seed on that arid mt. top.

        ….and constantly I mulched like Paul does.

       My 1st garden arrived in 1986 where Paul spent a lifetime learning. I dont as a rule have time 2garden so Paul has been constantly  instrumental in teaching me why that worked. And just how good it was, still is.  I gathered forest material& packed it above disturbed soil& mounds of dirt I built. I also rot any leafy weeds in water 2make tea 4roots &foliage sprays.



     Paul's trees are 16" deep woodchips. Good God.

      Most of us cant manage anywhere NEAR that. 

       Disturbed soil: There is no soil in history of man isn't improved thru massive disturbing. Disturbed soils always produce the sweetest massive most succulent wild plants I harvest, and by fall, that soil is crowded with insect life flying and burying.  But the BEST weed I ever ate wild was Dock GROWING IN FOREST MATERIAL. Using the Paul method. It was in pine needles in the rainiest spot in the country above LA. 

         This was a micro CLIMATE like Paul's Washington. WASHINGTON is the rainiest marine layer in USA. Marine layer is same thing they had in EDEN. Which was a peninsula above Africa among massive disturbed soil being the Nile delta where Egyptians settled.  


        Marine layer means cool, and condensation. Only then is no watering ideally possible. 

        Paul is anti disturb soil but plants are certainly not unless u have 36 tons of wood chips. The 2nd best sweetest wild Dock I ever ate grew in river side mud mulch dsposit. Get it? (Disturbed soil)

        Your gonna have 2disturb nature. Yahweh God used BEAVERS 2 disturbe landscape. 

       Man was put in garden 2take care of it. There is plenty of disturbing there. 

        Paul spent 30 years Los Angeles yet  seems 2have no clue about lower lattitude requirement for PUDDLES. Or "swales."


       Soil building:

        In nature is ranked marine salt shallows1, like they had in Eden, which is now below Gulf Aden, fresh shallows2, forest3 and prarie soils4. 

         So BEAVERS were a number1 inland soiling machine. That kept water tables high. 

       In eden, there was NO SUNLIGHT. Only cloud thru UV. Like Paul's marine layer Washington. IT DIDN'T RAIN in eden.  People had never saw heavy rains. There was mist that would ride up from the ground nights. Of all places on earth now, Washington coast where Paul is has the right balance 2produce ground condensation nights. Which in southern clay, is not very persistent. Still works, u just have work a lot harder then Paul.  Especially if u lack gravels &sands.I use Paul's method still but in Wister Ok clay and Los Angeles latitude sun, I must positively water even with my 60" annual rain.. Plus I have 2hand gather only leaves as mulch. No wood chips available. 

      Healthy plants get no bugs because they have more sugar. 

    Yes it’s true but you will not find any university studies on Molasses as an insecticide but the bottom-line is that Molasses is very effective against sucking insects like Lace Bugs, Aphids and White Flies. Why? Sticks their little wings together? Maybe but we think it’s because the Molasses raises the plant sap sugar content (Brix level) which pest insects dislike.

    Outstanding for controlling soil pest insects like Fungal Gnats and Thrips, etc by causing a flash of bacterium to grow which then attacks the pest insects when they cycle in the soil.

    Molasses also contains lots of minerals like Iron, Sulfur, Potassium, and Magnesium which is good for your plants and why Russian female weight lifters take it every day.

  3. Stop the paranoia with weed seeds. seeds are enormously nutrient rich. WEEDS are priceless. when used as green sewage mulch pulled in june immediately surrounding plant and added to water to rot.

  4. let's talk more about no fertilizers. that's where I'm gravitating2. has any1 been growing mulch only no fertilize.

  5. Thanks for the inspiring video. We have just bought land which has compacted clay soil. We want to plant a mixed cover crop to start building the soil. Would you recommend tilling just once to loosen the soil and make it receptive enough for seeds to grow. OR, would you recommend leaving the soil compacted and layering hay each season…..will the soil underneath the hay become less compacted? The real difficulty is really to get those first seeds in the ground and to make sure that they are able to take root and grow.

  6. I guess you can replace the hay with dried leaves,best with leaves soaked in water for a few weeks to speed up decomposing and the compost tea make good liquid fertilisers.That is how jungles and forests grow,with dead leaves.

  7. Good .please see zero budget natural farming english on youtube and internet.have patience and spread the knowledge

  8. What type of hay do you use? I mulch with straw every year. We moved to a new acreage last fall. This year we had squash bugs so badly. Should we keep this straw over the winter or will it just shelter the squash bugs?

  9. That is certainly a lovely garden.  The video well documented the use of hay mulch.  From a practical perspective I would like to know if this approach would work for folks who have to buy baled mulch.  Where I live hay is at least $4 a bale and at 6  inch deep you may get 6-8 feet of mulching.  It would be interesting to see the economics worked out with regards to whether this is economically practical if a gardener is trying to make money.  Regardless it was an interesting video!  Thanks to all involved!

  10. This is not the way to do it PRAIRIE ROAD! You need gas engine powered square bale shredder that is used for chopping up hay as feed, by chopping it up it makes it easy to spread with a pitchfork as it's not held together and the hay doesn't remain with long strands, it gets nice, loose and slippery, smaller bits of hay, just what you want for spreading ease! Also easy to load into garden wagons with a pitchfork. It's a lot easier than unpacking square bales by hand trust me.

  11. I spent months admiring expensive LED indoor farming, greenhouses, vertical farming, etc. Costing $$$. The no-dig, no-till is the lowest cost, more manual approach. Great for Rwanda where the gardeners and farmers are too poor to afford those expensive solutions. God bless the No-Dig, No-till, Lasagna, sheet composting practitioners.

  12. I only have hay that contains headed out grasses and even thistle seeds. While it isn't the best mulch, I found that covering it with last year's composted horse manure works great as the thick layer of manure soon starts to rot the hay and it smothers the young weed and grass seeds. If any survive, I just throw on more manure.

  13. Well done lady, You have a clean garden. I now see you spend more time in harvesting than weeding. Thank you

  14. there is no need for the lady narrator to come across as if she is narrating a children,s program … its a turn off for adults

  15. I don't underatand…you only have 1 row of plants for every 24 to 30" of garden area that is mulched? is that not grossly inefficient use of your planting area given up to mulch? you could plant so much more on that space. im confused on why u do it this way.

  16. Ive had a disaster by mulching for the 1st time in my vegetable garden over winter, the purpose of mulching was to prevent weeds from growing and improving soil fertility. This year was an unusual year of high rainfall in Sept [1st month of spring],the mulch was a haven for inoculating early blight, especially hard hit were my tomato,potato plants and slight leaf curl in the grapes vines. The tomatoes were replaced with new plants and sprayed with copper based fungicide.

  17. Hi, thanks for sharing. Do you imagine this could be easily scaled up to a 1-2 ac garden (or more)? What other fertility do you use in the garden? How do you manage fertility in your hay field to keep that part of your system sustainable? Thanks again.

  18. how does this compare to back to eden style I wonder? it seems very effective. 37 years is a massive advantage either way so its probably hard to compare. 37 years of any organic based method is basically a guarantee of excellent soil. much love for any method that works and makes amazing black gold soil such as this. I achieved much smaller scale of black gold soil but it cost me…I am fascinated by the methods that cost very little, recycle goods, require very little outside input and adhere to organic and permaculture style methods. It's the way of the future
    …it is our only choice…unless we can get our households to commit to a fourth bin. by this I mean we have recycling bins, normal waste bins and green waste bins (domestic). What if we had a fourth domestic bin that was "kitchen scraps, green leaf waste from hedging etc, weeds weeded before seeding, woodchips etc". just imagine the possibility. it would take people being honest about what they put in it but the same could be said about early recycling efforts….i.e education. peace

  19. what about using pine needles?  over here on the east cost people use it as decoration to keep weeds and grass out.  the only hay I can get around me is wheat straw or long leaf pine needles.  I'm wanting to do this to make my life easier next year.

  20. Great mulching video, Thanks for showing the detail of how you lay out the mulch, then fluf it up and work it in. I found that part very helpful.

  21. Can I ask why you use hay over straw? Hay in our area seems to be full of seeds and I can't imagine using alfalfa in our garden to reduce weeds.

  22. Would this system work in Minnesota? I am afraid it would keep the soil to cold to plant in the spring.

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